| Departing the Loire Valley and taking the train south east to Carcassonne I began a new and somewhat daunting adventure – our French unguided ride. I am not a skilled topographical map or compass reader, but do fine with written instructions. I was meeting a woman in Carcassonne who was joining me for this unique experience. We had never met, other than our telephone conversations when arranging her booking. We were met in Carcassonne and driven south about an hour to the small village of about 60 people where the ride begins and ends.  In the warm French farmhouse kitchen we were greeted with a cool beverage and shown to our comfortable, simple rooms. This is a home with much laughter and good cheer with the evening meal sometimes going on for hours with many stories being told. Quite serious about how their horses are ridden and cared for, we went off for our first day of riding with the organizer's daughter who thoroughly checked out everything from our grooming, hoof cleaning and tacking up, to map and compass reading. We must have done all right as we were given a 'thumbs up' to go off on our own the next morning.
With several maps, a compass, written directions, grain for the horses and a packed lunch in our saddlebags we set off to calls of "good luck, see you in a week". Our adventure had begun. Our bags would be moved daily to each new accommodation during the week, with feed waiting at each location for the horses. I am sure questions were asked each day of our hosts of the previous evening to see how they felt we were doing. We were never asked by the organizers if we were okay or needed anything, understanding we would ask if in need.
We found the ride to be more demanding and challenging than we had anticipated with map reading decisions to be discussed and made, wrong trails taken, then backtracking, rereading the map and off on the correct track almost a course in orienteering. We did more road riding than I had expected, however, there was very little if any traffic encountered. One day as we were riding up a long ascent on the wide shoulder of the road, down came bicyclists participating in the Carcassone to the Pyrennes bicycle race. They were on the downhill side of the pass and were smiling and waving as they flashed by in their colorful outfits and streamline helmets.
We rode on grassy and dirt tracks much of the time, along fields of grain, through wooded areas, climbing up, up on the strong, fit horses through sycamore and pine woods. In one instance the woods next to us were so thick it was as dark as night inside with no light penetrating. We rode in mists and sunshine, warm and cool breezes, shirtsleeves and jackets, as riding in the foothills of the mountains brings varying weather conditions. I would guess any time of the year riders could anticipate the same sort of weather.
There was a day or two when we rode for several hours before seeing another 'orange arrow', our beacon telling us we were riding in the correct direction or which trail to take. Always a welcome and reassuring sight! Some days we rode for hours through foothills and farmland before reaching a small village or seeing another person – wonderful. One of my most memorable experiences during the week was riding round a bend in the trail to see the unbelievable Cathar castle, Puylaurens, appear as if suspended from the clouds.
It was comforting to see each evening's host family looking for us as we approached, ready to show us where to put the horses for the night, store the tack, take us to our room, and most evenings joining us for their well prepared evening meal. What a special experience to be welcomed into their homes, sharing briefly in their diverse lives. I felt these wonderful people were one of the greatest gifts of this very unique riding experience. It would be wonderful to return to this region of southern France that is so strongly influenced by its close proximity to Spain and do this ride again. Having already worked our way through the pitfalls of map and compass reading it could be a breeze!
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