Horseback Riding in Turkey
THE GREAT ANATOLIAN RIDE: A JOURNEY ON HORSEBACK THROUGH NORTHWEST TURKEY |
Painting by Nesrin Sarligil
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The Great Anatolian Ride is a horseback itinerary through northwest Turkey that follows, as closely as possible, the early stages of the final journey of the adventurous seventeenth-century Ottoman Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi. After a lifetime spent wandering the worldfrom Vienna to Sudan, from the steppes of Muscovy to the deserts of north AfricaEvliya set out from Istanbul in 1671 to make the pilgrimage to Mecca that is required of all Muslims. He never returned to the city of his birth, but spent his last years in Egypt, composing and recomposing the 10-volume traveloguethe Book of Travelsthat is the account of his far flung travels.
Evliya Çelebi was born in Istanbul in 1611, and 2011 has been proclaimed the year of Evliya Çelebi by UNESCO in commemoration of the 400th anniversary of his birth, and in recognition of his extraordinary achievements.
In Fall 2009 a group of riders set out to trace part of Evliya's 1671 route from Istanbul to the western Anatolian town of Simav, before ending in Kütahya, Evliyas ancestral city. They covered some 800 miles in 6 weeks, pausing as they went to compare their experiences with Evliya's, and to talk to local horsefolk about the days before tractors, when most villagers and farmers relied on horses in their work and travel. This expedition has resulted in a guidebook to Evliya's route, a book about the expeditions findings, and a documentary film. The guidebook and film are scheduled to appear in 2011.
The Great Anatolian Ride sets out from the village of Soğuksu, south of the Marmara Seariding through the urban sprawl of Istanbul is no longer to be recommended, and you must pick up Evliya's route in gentler surroundings. From Soğuksu you head south through dramatic landscapes and across varied terrain, zig-zagging east and west from your main direction of travel as he himself did. The ride will end short of Simav, in the historic city of Kütahya, which as well being Evliyas ancestral home, contains many monuments from medieval and later times.
The countryside of northwest Turkey is wide openunlike the countryside of most of Europe or North America. There are few fences or walls to restrict your movement, and you are enthusiastically welcomed as you go by, rather than being unceremoniously chased away. This is part of the immense attraction of riding in this region. You will pass through many towns and villages on your journey, visiting sites that Evliya records in his Book of Travels. You will have a chance to meet the people who make their living from the land, far from the bustle of the ever-growing cities of Turkey, as well as see the distinctive stone and wooden architecture of the region. You make your journey in the weeks around harvest time, and will find most villagers in their fields and orchards preparing for the busy period aheadthey are sure to share with you the fruits and other produce that form the basis of the rural economy.
There are 9 nights of camping and 7 nights in hotels. The camps have tents and thick foam mattresses. A chef prepares the meals on site - he prepares mostly Turkish specialities, many of them traditional. Often even the pastries are made from scratch in the little camp kitchen. It is quite amazing what is so seemingly effortlessly produced. Turkey is famous for its kebabs, mezes (different types of appetizers) and also very rich in vegetable and fish dishes. Anatolia is well known for its pasta dishes such as manti and gözleme, a hand-made and hand rolled pastry filled with, for example, spinach and cheese. There will be bbq-ing on some nights but there is also plenty to choose from for vegetarians.
The Great Anatolian Ride is a completely new route for riders that has been established as a result of the exploratory journey made in 2009.
For more information see:
Having ridden along positively pinching ourselves that we were finally doing what we had for so long longed to do, and that we were not dreaming but actually riding across this beautiful, open, hospitable countryside and seeing so many historical treasures, we can confidently say that we think others would enjoy the experience. Imagine the pleasure of hours in the saddle under a mild September sun, splashing through rivers, riding through shady groves, trotting and cantering along earthen tracks, and stopping in picturesque villages to drink Turkish tea in delicate little glasses with our friendly hosts. What could be better?
- Donna Landry, professor of English at Kent University and well known Ottoman scholar.
There are lots of opportunities to meet people and they are incredibly kind and hospitable. It was one of the biggest highlights of the ride for me.
- Susan Wirth, Massachusetts, who did the scouting ride in 2009
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| Itinerary |
| Day 1: | Arrive in Istanbul and take a taxi to the hotel. |
| Day 2: | Hersek to Cobankalesi
After breakfast, transfer by minibus and ferry across the Sea of Marmara, to the outskirts of the village of Hersek where you meet your horses. From here you ride past the hamlet of Soguksu to the medieval hill fort of Cobankalesi. Ride your horses through the clear, shallow waters of the Yalak River (the Dracon of antiquity), where you may startle flocks of egrets and heron, and meet young shepherds herding their cattle along the riverbank. Your first nights camp will be on the shores of the Yalak River. (3 hours riding) |
| Day 3: | Cobankalesi to Mahmudiye
After breakfast ride via Valideköprü, with its 17th-century bridge, along the Yalak River until you reach the former silk-producing village of Kizderbent, where you stop for lunch. After lunch, ride through a beautiful valley where shepherds tend their sheep and cattle with the help of their magnificent Antolian Kangal dogs, to reach the outskirts of Mahmudiye where camp is set up in a forest clearing. (5 hours riding) |
| Day 4: | Mahmudiye to Iznik
This morning you set out from Mahmudiye, passing through magnificent orchards where pomegranate, walnut, quince, apple and plum trees abound. There will be beautiful views of Iznik Lake as you ride. Enjoy a picnic lunch in Orhaniye before reaching the ancient, walled city of Iznik, passing the Roman obelisk at Dikilita along the way. Leave the horses for the night and transfer to a bed and breakfast on the shores of Iznik Lake. In Iznik you will visit the famous Green Mosque, the ancient city walls and the Tile museum. (5.5 hour riding) |
| Day 5: | Iznik to Mecidiyeköy
Join the horses and ride south from Iznik, towards the mountains and up to the Dirazali summit where you have your last panorama of Iznik Lake. After picnicing in Kizilhisar, ride down from the summit and through fields of sunflowers to the village of Mecidiyeköy where camp will be set up. A visit of Mecidiyeköy in the afternoon. (4 hours riding) |
| Day 6: | Mecidiyeköy to Karasil Çeltikçi
Today you ride from Mecidiyeköy down the valley and across the richly agricultural Yenisehir plain. Ride through the old city of Yenisehir and have lunch on the outskirts of town. Arrive at your campsite near the village of Karasil Çeltikçi in the afternoon. (6 hours) |
| Day 7: | Karasil Çeltikçi to Babasultan
After breakfast, continue across the plain and through rolling uplands via Sungurpasa and Çavusköy, where you stop for lunch. After lunch you pass other settlements nestled in the hills, and continue to your campsite near the village of Babasultan. Here you may enjoy a traditional Turkish meal prepared by the villagers, as well as an evening of historic Turkish music. (5 hours riding) |
| Day 8: | Bursa
Enjoy a day of sightseeing in Bursa, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire, and for centuries the center of the silk trade. Explore the mausoleums of the Sultans, stroll through the historic bazaars, visit the Uluja mi (mosque), possibly visit the Bursa City Museum, and lunch at the famous Iskender restaurant. Overnight in hotel. |
| Day 9: | Babasultan to Cerrah
From Babasultan, ride along the lower slopes of Mount Uludag, ancient Mount Olympus, where the country tracks are lined with walnut and other fruit trees. You pass the tomb and shrine of a 13th-century saint, and continue through Yeniceköy and Edebey, lunching along the way. Your campsite will be on a wooded riverbank near the small town of Cerrah. (4 hrs riding) |
| Day 10: | Cerrah to Bahçekaya
Leave Cerrah and ride through orchards, along farm roads and through several villages on the slopes of Mount Uludag. In Ortaköy you will see the restored 15th-century caravansary of Karaca Ahmet. Soon you follow a river to reach your picnic lunch on its banks. In the afternoon ride through oak forest and up into the hills to reach the village of Bahçekaya. (6.5 hrs riding) |
| Day 11: | Bahçekaya to Domur
Leaving Bahçekaya early, ride ever upwards through mixed forest to reach summer pastures at the summit of the mountain. Enjoy dramatic and extensive views in every direction as you ride, descending to a pass for lunch. From here you follow a well-preserved, stone-paved Ottoman roadone of the few that still surviveto emerge where the landscape flattens out in small holdings. Ride across grasslands scattered with juniper and pines, to reach your campsite above the village of Domur. (6.5 hrs riding) |
| Day 12: | Domur to Elmalı
Ride down to the town of Çukurca, with its nearby tomb of the saint Selim Baba, and through grassy uplands as far as Muratlı. Continue cross country and along forest roads to Seydiküzü. Then on to Fındıcak, after which the route opens out with panoramic views on all sides. Enjoy a picnic lunch, and make camp in the picturesque hamlet of Elmalı. Its wooden houses are characteristic of the traditional architecture of this area. (6.5 hrs riding) |
| Day 13: | Elmalı to Isaköy
Above Elmalı you must lead your horses down a goat-track to the valley below. Then follow a river and climb up and up on forest roads before descending to open country at Senlik where lunch is waiting. Continue across arable land and chalky uplands, finally bidding farewell to your horses near the village of Isaköy. Transfer to the hotel in Küthaya. (5 hrs riding) |
| Day 14: | Küthya
In the morning you visit the historic city of Kütahya, ancestral home of Evliya Çelebi. Among Kütahya's many monuments you may visit the nearby Balıklı hamami, built by an Ottoman Grand Vizir in the 16th century. It is the Turkish bath where Evliya himself was scrubbed clean after his travels. In the afternoon, visit the newly-built hippodrome in the suburbs where you gain insight into one of the most popular equestrian sports in Turkey, and meet some of the local rahvancıs/pacing racers who stable their horses here. You may want to try out one of their pacers on the track. Enjoy a farewell dinner in old Küthaya with traditional Turkish music. |
| Day 15: | Küthya to Istanbul
Transfer by mini-bus or train to Istanbul for departure.
Book departing flight after 6:00 pm. |
Click here for the reverse itinerary
THIS ITINERARY IS FLEXIBLE. CHANGES MAY OCCUR DUE TO WEATHER OR OTHER UNFORESEEN CIRCUMSTANCES. |
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| Pricing and Dates |
| Length of Ride | 15 days, 14 nights and 11 1/2 days riding. |
| Riding Ability | Intermediate |
| Group Size | Minimum-4 Maximum-10 |
| Pace | Mostly walking with occasional trots and slow canters |
| Tack | English trekking |
| Horses | Anatolian |
| Weight Limit | 190 lbs with a few heavy riders, if experienced |
| 2012 Dates | Sept 15-29 |
| 2012 Price | $4,205 4-6 riders
$3,775 7-10 riders |
| Single Supplement | $200 |
| Transfers | At riders expense |
| Additional Information | Ride price is set, guaranteed and final at the time deposit is paid. |
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